Snow and rain and water in general

 

Although the weather here has been pretty good most of the time we’ve had some rain over the last few days and driving across different mountain ranges we’ve seen quite a lot of snow. There’s been quite bad weather in Fjordland with lots of trampers being stranded after the same night that we had the thunderstorm last week.

Mt Aspiring (near Wanaka) is definitely whiter than it was when we saw it first. Also I think it is Treble Cone nearby which has a covering on top.

Lots and lots of waterfalls looking from the gravel road driving up towards Mt Aspiring together with a few fords to cross and assorted sheep and cattle to avoid.

The Moeraki Boulders dodging hailstones with a rainbow was an interesting experience. At low tide you can see loads of them and we had the beach to ourselves. The nearby campsite was good if slightly soggy underfoot. We went back to the boulders next morning and at high tide they virtually disappear under the water. We kept a wary eye on the tide.

Immersed ourselves in the thermal pools at Hanmer Springs  yesterday – they feel warmer than the last time and treated myself to an aqua facial this morning.

Had an email from Heather in Queensland. Luckily her area near Airlie Beach escaped the damage from Cyclone Ului last week but she was without power, phone and internet for a few days.  We’ve decided not to travel around Australia but will base ourselves with her and just visit some other friends near Brisbane. A couple of weeks of just swimming, snorkelling, diving and exploring the local area will bring an enjoyable end to our trip.

Gold…

 

Following on from our visit to Bannockburn we also encountered other gold this week.

 

1

Bendigo is pretty remote. There are only a few houses here and the road continues to the Clutha River. Mark took us down there on the first day here.

 

On Monday 22nd March we noticed one or two vehicles on the road near the river. Then loads more with kayaks and mountain bikes on the top. Looking back to the main road a car park now existed next to Oliver Road. Next thing was some very fit looking people running past the end of the driveway – one or two to start with and then several at a time.

 

This is the Goldrush event. A 375km running, cycling, mountain biking and kayaking 3 day event. Very popular with single and team entries. You can even ride a tandem bike as part of it. We passed several cyclists on our way down to Cromwell.  The Goldrush winner only took about 17 hours to complete it over the 3 days.  You need to be extremely fit to keep up with him!

 

2

Having got the gold bug we went panning in the Goldfields Centre in the Kawaru Gorge - Chris managed to find several tiny pieces and I got two.  Just bigger than specks really. We also had an interesting talk and were given some gold to hold – apparently it is very hard and you would break your teeth if you tried to bite it. It’s alluvial gold (washed down by the glaciers/rivers). There was also one bit embedded in quartz. Worth a visit if you are coming out here.

 

3

Speaking with Gillian on Tuesday morning via Skype – this has been really useful whilst we have been travelling – she said we should go and visit her friends Steve and Thea who are co-owners of the Wooing Tree winery in Cromwell.  Two of their wines have recently won gold medals –Blondie (or should I say Goldie) and Beetle Juice (named after the critically endangered Cromwell Chafer Beetle). After chatting with  Thea for a while and admiring their vineyard we bought a couple of bottles. The Blondie also won the Champion Rose Award at the Easter Show a few days ago.  Their Pinot Noir is stocked in the UK and has won several other gold medals.

 

4

Glendu Bay has been mentioned by a couple of people so we decided to head up there before leaving Central Otago. I think it’s a bit early in the season for good golden colours although autumn is definitely on the way. We saw the odd poplar and silver birch which were starting to go yellow.

15 to 22 March

Over the last week or so we’ve been exploring Central Otago and the Mackenzie Basin and the area around Mt Cook.

Lakes Hawea and Wanaka sparkled in the sunshine. We saw cows being herded along the road next to Lake Hawea from one field to another. Lots and Lots of cows walking very slowly.  We stopped to take photos and let them past. The farmer said it normally takes him (and his six dogs) around 2 hours or so to move them. The dogs lay in the creek have a drink and cool down.

The weather varies tremendously here. Going from one valley to another or over some mountains and it can completely change. We drove to Mt Cook and you couldn’t see it due to cloud and rain and then drove to Lake Tekapo and it was lovely and sunny.

Did a day time tour of the observatory on top of Mt John and was given a behind the scenes look at lots of things. Alpha Centauri is our nearest neighbour at 4.1 light years away and visible through the telescope. Its companion (which looks quite close) is actually 480m km away. 

The MOA telescope looks for objects that emit no light and basically works by checking gravity. Partly sponsored by the Japanese it’s  pretty big and has found 30 new objects since it opened in 2004. Pretty impressive when you consider that only 350 planets/stars have been discovered since the 18th/19th century. The camera attached to it takes an 84mp image and has to be cooled by helium. The telescope is so well balanced that although it weighs 10 tons it can be moved by a fingertip.

Drove along the hydro canal to Lake Pukaki (which runs up to Mt Cook). There’s a salmon farm in it and some escape only to be caught by fishermen who sit a bit further on. We saw some jumping out of the water and virtually on to their lines. A very cold day but sunny. At around 730m here. Then drove along gravel road towards Mt Cook – fantastic views of the mountains with blue skies.

We then did a night time star gazing tour. They bus you up the mountain as you aren’t allowed to drive and for the last bit they turn the headlights off and use sidelights only. They have a resident astro photographer, Fraser Gunn, who really knows his stuff. We bought a DVD of his photos. He helped Chris get some photos using his new camera and they came out really well – the magellanic clouds and a couple of nebulae. Very cold here and they lend you coats to wear. Ours were preworn by some Antarctic explorers and were much appreciated. Free hot chocolate during the tour went down well. We saw Saturn quite clearly including its rings. Chris also saw Mars. We stayed there until midnight and then they gave us a lift back to the camp. There’s very little light pollution here so the stars come down to the horizon and the Milky Way is clearly visible.

We never quite know where we are going and sometimes just decide to take a road to see where it will go. We tried to get to Lake Benmore and Benmore itself. We managed to get to the lake and then the road became a 4wd one so we decided caution would be better in our van.

Turning back we choose to go over the Hakataramea Pass. The sign said that it may be steep with fords but we’ve done that sort of thing before without problems. It was well worth it as it was a beautiful drive. The pass is at 965m and definitely felt cold – its been jeans and fleeces weather for the last couple of days. Lovely views and a small river running alongside the road. The fords were pretty shallow and some completely dry. Saw plenty of sheep and cattle and the valley opened up on the other side to become massive and full of farms.

The Lindis Pass is beautiful – lots of tussock grass and some wildflowers – everything looks a golden colour.
Back to Bendigo and a lazy weekend. Managed a walk to the Clutha river with Dexter the pointer who is very keen on rabbits and who also things our van is his property and likes jumping in the back of it whenever possible. Archie, the Springer spaniel puppy, isn’t allowed a lot of exercise until his broken toe heals.
Had an interesting excursion to Bannockburn near Cromwell and the old gold sluicings. Found plenty of iron pyrites (fools gold) and quartz but none of the real stuff. It looks a bit like Monument Valley in the US with rock stacks left standing only this is all manmade. They used water cannons to blast the rocks and then sluiced the sludge and found gold.
Due to the location of Bendigo (between lots of mountain ranges) it tends not to get much rain. It’s hot and dry in the summer and cold and dry in the winter. However last night there was a thunderstorm and it bucketed down several times. Not sure how much difference that will make to the grass though. If you want to get things to grow out here you have to irrigate them regularly. Mark and Christina have planted several trees as an orchard and they each have anti-rabbit covers and irrigation. Most of them are growing pretty well. It’s very windy here and they’ve planted some other trees to act as a windbreak. Beautiful views from every side of the house.

6 to 14 March

A scenic drive from Fairlie to Bendigo with lots of stops on the way. Lake Tekapo looking beautiful in the sunlight. Very blue due to glacial 'flour'. Managed to see Mt Cook although cloud covered it up again a bit later on. Lindis Pass was beautiful.  Arrived in Bendigo and Mark took us up to see some old mine workings in the hills opposite the house. Lots of vineyards appearing on the slopes leading up to them. Apparently it is a good wine growing area with several large vineyards having extra fields here. Lovely views over the valleys and to different mountain ranges. 

Mark is off on a tramping expedition tomorrow for 5 days along the Rees Dart track above Glenorchy. 

A trip to the old town in Cromwell was interesting. The original town was flooded when Lake Dunstan was created in the 1970s and they managed to save some historic buildings and have started to re-erect them. They've done about 7 so far and one has old printing presses and history of the town in it.

On to Queenstown and a trip on the steamship TSS Earnslaw across Lake Wakatipu to Walter Peak station for a heritage tour. Gill, our tour leader, explained some of the history of the station, the gardens and NZ itself. Did you know that the first settlers sent for things from home to make them feel better and to improve their surroundings? Gorse and bracken to clad the hillsides; sparrows, blackbirds and thrushes so it wasn't so quiet. Had a wine tasting of local central Otago wines whilst we were there. Very pretty gardens full of flowers. 

After fish and chips sitting out overlooking the lake we then drove north and camped out at 12 Mile Delta on the Glenorchy road. Next morning Chris moved the van so we overlooked the lake and we had a lazy day (Chris did have a swim - apparently the water is around 9 degrees summer and winter so rather bracing). Chased off by sandflies and decided to camp at Glenorchy itself. 

Lovely views on the way including a glacier which we believe may be the Margaret one. Lovely sunny day with reflections on the lake.

Did some gravel road driving north of Glenorchy. You can drive up to Chinaman's Bluff where the road meets the Dart river (and Mark's tramping ends). Lots of streams to ford - we counted them - 7 with water in them, 1 partly filled, 2 dry ones and another dry one which wasn't really a ford but would be covered by water if it came down from the mountains. Plus loads of cattle, sheep and horses.

Next day drove down to Te Anau with a stop in Queenstown for anti sandfly stuff. Apparently baby oil mixed with dettol will do the trick. We bought both together with some more conventional stuff with Deet in it.

Arrived at Te Anau on a beautiful sunny afternoon. Checked the weather forecast and it isn't good from tomorrow onwards so we decided to do a late flight over Fjordland. Our personal helicopter (we were the only passengers) left with at 5pm with Ron at the controls. He has over 23 years experience in flying helicopters so we were in safe hands. The tour lasted 1.5 hours with two stops on the mountains - 1 on Mt Pender and 1 on Mt Kidd. It was a fantastic experience. The clouds were starting to come in which added to the views. We saw lots of lakes and small and large tarns. We flew over Lake Te Anau and Lake Manapouri and saw the hydro-electric power station from the air. We also saw a very expensive road to nowhere which was built to help setup the power station. 10 metres (yes that's right metres) of rain a year help to run the power station. Apparently they get up to 30 metres at Milford Sound.

It was great landing on the mountains and looking down in the sounds. Slightly spongy underfoot between the rocks. There was even some snow left up there. We went through a hanging valley called Campbell's Kingdom which had lots of waterfalls. We also saw some of the huts on the Kepler Track - some mad NZers even run up to them (very steep, long and twisty paths to them) in a race.

After a night in Te Anau we went to the cinema and saw Ate Whenua - a film about Fjordland.

As we hadn't been south of Te Anau before we decided to go down to Invercargill via the southern scenic route. The inland bit of this isn't very interesting - lots and lots of farms but the coastal bits are pretty good. McCracken's Rest was very windy - nothing between us and Antarctica.

Visited the museum in Invercargill and I touched a juvenile taotera (a prehistoric lizard like animal). The patriarch is Henry who is estimated to be 120 years old. Chris went to look at motorbikes owned by Burt Munro of The Last Little Indian fame - he set landspeed records at Bonneville in the US in the 1960s which still haven't been broken.

Southern scenic route improved with some beautiful coastlines. We saw two sea lions on the beach at Waipapa Point near the lighthouse and got quite close to them (about 10 metres). Managed to take a couple of short videos too. Lots of rocks on the beach but nearly empty rockpools - mainly seaweed in them.

Weather deteriorated and it started raining. We've been pretty lucky on this trip and the weather has been mostly good with the odd shower of rain.  Spent the night at Newhaven Holiday Park on Surat Bay. Will go to look for seals tomorrow.

Woke to rain so decided not to walk. Drove on further and ended up at Nugget Point lighthouse. It started raining when we were walking so sheltered under bushes whilst the hail then came down. The lighthouse is now fully automated and controlled by a computer in Wellington. They have a lookout point in front of it so it had stopped raining and we took a few photos. Another tourist was standing on a metal grill and looking into the wind and it looked like he would take off.

Drove north to Dunedin to try to escape the weather and it got worse. Torrential rain and hail as we approached the city. As it was bad weather we (mainly me) decided to visit CadburyWorld. We toured the factory (complete with lovely hats covering our hair and Chris had to have one covering his stubble). Although they weren't making anything at the time we got a few samples including some liquid chocolate.

More rain overnight and very windy the next day. Decided to head back to Bendigo and hopefully they weather would be better there. 

Before we went we visited the local aquarium which is run by Otago University Marine Studies dept. Took a personal tour with Jean one of tutors. Saw massive crayfish moults - they shed their outer skin (including their eyes) every so often. They also have an escaping octopus called Fred who has learned to get out of his tank by the smallest of holes.

Very windy when we arrived at the aquarium and again when we left and most of the way back to Bendigo. Passed lots of fruit farms near Roxburgh and the weather improved - the wind dropped and the sun came out. By the time we arrived at Clyde we had to take off fleeces and trainers and jeans. 

A relaxed evening with Christina and Mark and a lazy day the next day. It's nice to be in one place for a couple of days. Will explore around Wanaka and Lake Hawea tomorrow.

26 Feb to 5 March

Interisland Ferry crossing smooth and Chris saw dolphins riding alongside us as we went. Took the scenic route towards Nelson - a beautiful but twisty road. A lovely sunny day and we ended up at Motueka near the Abel Tasman National Park. The campsite had an aviary filled with birds - budgies, cockatiels and finches so we woke to the sound of birdsong.


Noticed loads of orchards on our drive north the next day - apples, pears, kiwis, hops and cherries. Takaka Hill is very steep and they use it for mountain bike races. We stopped a couple of times on the way up and two bikers managed to keep up with us. Stunning scenery enhanced by a Huey helicopter flying low at one point. We stopped to see what was going on - "a drugs raid for cannabis" said a plain clothes policeman (I didn't realise he was one until a couple of others got out of the car holding machetes).


Pupu Springs are the largest freshwater springs in the southern hemisphere. The water wells up through the marble rocks at a rate of 14,000 litres per second. You can actually see it moving. It's 7 metres deep but doesn't look it and quite cold but absolutely beautiful with the colours in the water and surrounding vegetation (have uploaded some photos to Flickr). There was a brown trout in one of the springs.

Continued north along Golden Bay to Puponga Farm near Farewell Spit. Beautiful views from the cafe overlooking the sand spit which is a bird sanctuary. Walked to Wharariki Beach - 30 minutes along a hillside path and then through the sand dunes. Absolutely beautiful and with the added bonus of seal pups at play in the rock pools. We saw at least a dozen of them with a couple of adults keeping a careful eye out. I think we got a bit too close at one point (within 3 metres) and one of the adults started heading our way - a hasty retreat was called for...and calling into the caves got a reply from a seal. Lots of green mussels and large kelp exposed on the rocks and a couple of beautiful archways in the rocks. By this time the tide was turning so we couldn't explore any further. A long haul back to the camper van and then we decided to visit Cape Farewell which is officially the furthest north point on the South Island. It's only a 5 minute walk from the car park and we could see seals on the beach far below but there's no way down to it.

Drove back along Golden Bay admiring all the birds - lots of black swans on the mud flats. Spent the night at Pohara Beach at the northern part of the Abel Tasman.

Woke to a phone call on Sunday at 7.30am from Adam in Christchurch. A tsunami warning had been issued due to the earthquake in Chile. The Lyttelton lifeboats were being moved up the hill (they are stored out of the water) to ensure they are not affected. He suggested we may want to move away from the sea. At this point the sea was about 3 metres behind us and all that was between us and it was a hedge and a beach. Couldn't raise anyone at the campsite office so decided to head for higher ground. Takaka Hill and beyond seemed sensible. The radio was issuing warnings about not going near the beach or rivers and how any waves might hit us at 9-10am. Picked up a couple of older kiwi hitch hikers on the way over Takaka Hill who were off to fish on the Motueka River and totally unconcerned about any risk.

Decided to head for Hanmer Springs and spend the night there. A very scenic drive along state highway 65 took us past lots more orchards and we stopped several times to take pictures. The valley leading from the Lewis Pass to Hanmer is absolutely beautiful. Arrived at Hanmer and Chris was immediately stung by a wasp on his wrist (and when I say immediately I mean it - he was actually getting out of the camper van at the time)

Woken by scratching in the night (not us although all our mosquito bites were playing up). Seemed to be coming from the storage cupboard above our heads. Couldn't see anything when we looked.

Visited the thermal pools. As it was a relatively cool day we were advised to go from cold(er) to warmer. Cold being a relative term as it was 36 degrees. The hottest sulphur (very smelly) ones were 41 degrees. Couldn't spent much time in there.

Came out feeling very relaxed. Chris's arm swelled up overnight and we visited a pharmacist in Amberley who prescribed antihistamines.

Arrived in Christchurch and headed out to Lyttelton to see Adam, Rachele and their sons Liam and Finn. Rachele is a volunteer in the local fire brigade. It was her birthday and we were just about to order pizza when a siren sounded from somewhere below us (it is very hilly here - see later adventures!). Rachele simply disappeared without even putting her shoes on. Her pager rang - a couple of grass fires. She reappeared an hour or so later. The engine didn't attend that call out as they were turned around mid call but went to another one about a branch on a power cable. Strong north easterly winds today were causing problems.

Had noticed a few days earlier that there was a sticker with a number 3 on the windscreen and something about an expiry date of 19 March. As we have the van until 6 April not sure if it is legal to drive with it. Discovered that it does need to have its warrant of fitness (like an MOT) so we arranged to take it to the depot in Christchurch tomorrow.  Can't believe that they rented it to us like that. Altogether the van is a bit of a disappointment - certainly not the 'luxury' version mentioned in the advert and it is costing a lot. It feels very tired - lots of holes, things that are broken or don't work properly. I wouldn't recommend the people we got it from - Adventure Vans.

Chris's arm and hand had swollen even further so we decided to get it checked by a doctor. Luckily the local surgery agreed to see us so we trotted down the hill. About 2 hours later we returned. Very friendly and helpful people and it only cost $35 to see them as there is some sort of reciprocal arrangement with the NHS. A prescription for antibiotics was given.

Adam had taken the day off to be with us and after cold pizza it was suggested that we could walk up(!) to the top of the hill and then take the gondola (cable car) down. Finn is only 5 so if he could do it then we could do it. All I can say it that Finn is a very fit 5 year old and we are very unfit 40 somethings. By the time we got to the top (and kiwi signs are most misleading - it said 350 metres to the summit at one point but it felt like much more than that and was very steep) I was very red and completely knackered.

After a home cooked supper an early night and woken again by scratching during the night. Took the van for its test/repairs and went into Christchurch for the morning. Took a tram and also climbed 134 steps of the cathedral tower. Botanical gardens beautiful with lovely herbaceous borders. A quick stop off at the airforce museum to look at old planes and helicopters and then home for roast chicken. Delicious!

More scratching overnight. Discovered holes in various food packets. We definitely have a mouse...

Drove west and ended up at Lake Coleridge after driving on lots of gravel roads. We stayed here last time. The have been a few changes - not so many permanent caravans and no request for payment for camping. Scenery beautiful - mountains and a lake and lots of grasses and a few birds. A lovely peaceful place - well it was until 7.20 the next morning when the first boats arrived. They get up early here as it is at least a 45 minute drive from anywhere. By 9.30 another four arrived so we decided to move on.

Lake Coleridge is pretty big - at least 20 km long.  It is fed by both the Harper and Wilberforce Rivers at the northern end. It's all part of Glenthorn Station which used to be known as Ryton Station. I think it is one of the biggest in NZ.

Found a load of holiday houses at the end of the lake together with some caravans and houses people had built/were building themselves.  Massive glacial valleys - I think some of Lord of the Rings was filmed here.

Drove south again and ended up in Fairlie. Spoke with Mark (husband of Christina mentioned in earlier blogs) and arranged to see him on saturday. Free internet here (although speed not good) and free showers and very clean at the Top 10 park.

Will upload more photos when next have a good connection.